Ballon

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manonthemoon
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Ballon

Post by manonthemoon »

We've had ours for 8 years but it's beginning to only heat the water to a moderate temperature, well at least for a shower or bath. It used to produce water so hot you couldn't put your hand in. Now tonight that was different. Only got enough for a quick shower.

Is it on it's way out?

Just wondering if we need a new ballon?

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mysty
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Re: Ballon

Post by mysty »

Yes, I think you can change the element but you can buy a brand new ballon for a couple of hundred euros.
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Tom
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Re: Ballon

Post by Tom »

It could be the thermostat next to the heater element inside the ballon. You could try turning the stat control to a higher temperature. Should be easy to access the control or even to change the stat if necessary.
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bluebird
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Re: Ballon

Post by bluebird »

manonthemoon wrote:
Sat Mar 23, 2019 7:48 pm
We've had ours for 8 years but it's beginning to only heat the water to a moderate temperature, well at least for a shower or bath. It used to produce water so hot you couldn't put your hand in. Now tonight that was different. Only got enough for a quick shower.

Is it on it's way out?

Just wondering if we need a new ballon?
Do you have a filter on your main feed pipe? The water heaters can get caked in limescale and performance deteriorates. When I took the old one out I cut it in half, there was the equivalent of two sandbags of the stuff inside the tank. Not sure how old it was, judging by the previous owners attitude to maintenance, probably 20yrs old.

manonthemoon
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Re: Ballon

Post by manonthemoon »

It hasn't heated any water overnight during our cheap rate. I've now flicked the switch to see if it heats during the day when off the "auto" mode.

Sounds like we need a new ballon, but will check out the other suggestions. Thanks

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Le Démerdeur
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Re: Ballon

Post by Le Démerdeur »

The element will either be heating = OK or not = dead.

If its not heating as much as it used to then try the thermostat, if it has been gradual then it could be the volume being taken up by calcaire as has been described, it can be a shocking amount.

Whilst calcaire on the element does slow down the rate of heat transfer like a kettle all the kws consumed do heat the water, its just slower at the start but will restitute heat after switching off, however if a big volume is calcaire then you have less hot water to draw.

finally a slow leak or more likely a drip from the GDS will prevent a ballon from heating as its losing warm water almost as fast as it can heat it, in the UK mice made a tiny hole in my multi-couche PER hot water pipe, gave them a nice sauna under the chalet floor and I had hardly any hot water which quickly ran out in the morning, while the ballon is heating check that your water meter is not turning.

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RobertArthur
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Re: Ballon

Post by RobertArthur »

To facilitate fault finding:

Follow the water as already mentioned: the groupe de sécurité (GDS) should only leak a little bit when the warm-up cycle reaches it's end. Leaking continuously, something wrong, try turning the knob a few times to get rid of possible dirt particles obstructing it's function. Below the chauffe-eau and look here.

Follow the electrons, arriving at their destination? Diagram with a modern electronic meter and for the old school disc meter and a so called separate relais de découplage this road map.

Replacing a thermostat, easier viewed than done. Simple go/no go check: turn off the power in the CU and in cold condition it should measure zero ohm with a multimeter. Checking the switch-off temperature is only possible in power-on condition: something for an electrician or experienced DIY. The presence of a 30 mA RCD in the CU would be comforting. Although a hot water tap gives already enough feedback. Not any multimeter or temperature meter needed (to my regret). Unless you remove the thermostat and heat it. Switch-off temperature too high and your hot water would be almost boiling, which is not the case.

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